![]() ![]() I have no iLogic for this, but I do have some vb.NET code to offer. The code that I have attached is matching the thickness from the current to the new style and setting it current and then deleting the one named "default" it it is not in use anymore. The only way that I see this as being possible is if we look at something that is unique for each sheetmetal style, for this I am going to look at the thickness and hope that you do not have multiple styles with the same thickness as I know that I do as the bends for something like stainless are not the same as steel etc. If you have anything you might like to share it would be greatly apreciated. I would guess this code has soemthing to do with updateing to you current style libary. I am not sure what you mean by chek boolean "". I am not to savy but very interested when it comes to programming API & ilogic. We had seperate templates for each thickness tied to a bend table. the old 16 ga style is called "default" and the old 14 ga style name is "default" as well, & its been that way since R4. This would not be a problem if I created all new parts from scratch. This is a problem when useing an old assymbly as a template save copy as, replace component. We get all the old "default" style's in an assembly and its nice to update the new assymbly as much as possible. This only works by deleting the old flat pattern and creating a new one. I delete the flat pattern to get the part to the current release & retrieve extents on our idw. This is not enough info to properly install a LSD because there is shimming/back spacing involved due to the installation of new bearings and races but it should give you an idea of what is involved.Yes we all use 1 common network style library now, & the flat pattern is very critical. The left overs of the 3rd gear syncro and hub I've done this twice now and not thought of it until a tech recomended itģrd gear syncro is destroyed and the syncronizer hub dropped a catch(dog) Now pounding them out (I should have just used an air hammer. Step 13 lift out the pinion shaft and now the diff and now you have completed taking your tranny apart or at least down to the sub assemblies Step 11:Unbolt the reverse linkage and remove the reverse shaft Step 10:Lift away the sfift linkage assembly Step 9 take a block of wood and hammer and separate the case halfs and lift the case off Step 8 remove all the 13mm bolts on the differential end of the case the 1st is on the bottom almost in between the linkage pivot points and the other it inside the 5th gear end case Step 6: remove the shift linkage pivot points 2 on top and 2 on the bottom Also I will add that I applied heat with a heat gun for a few minutes after I had the gear puller in place and ready to crank away. Last night I modified my craftsman gear puller a little more and I think I have made it very simple to do everytime now. Pulling the 5th gear: I pulled my DZSL SLC's 5th gear last night and it was easy but I've done it several times now. This one is from sears and I have not chipped a tooth yet on 5th gear but I've seen a VW tech chip some teeth before using the actual VW tool ![]() I have had to grind the prongs on the gear puller to fit between the case and the 5th gear. I screw in an allen bolt to center the gear puller Make certain you do not press on the end of the shaft directly. then you will need to pull the 5th gear off. and then you will need to remove the 5th gear syncro/hub assebmly with a gear puller. Step 4: Remove all the 13mm bolts and nuts inside the bell housing area The G60 and later VR6 shift towers have differnt thickness shafts and when swapping them you need to swap out the bottom cap/guide: It should be noted that when switching shift towers that there are differances to note. There are indents on the cap and tower to do this remove 13mm bolts and then heat the area around the sealant with a torch(propane) and then smack with a piece of wood and hammer the cap and shift tower from the side to spin them. Step 3 remove shift tower and bottom cap/guide. Step 2: remove output flanges with bolt from tranny case(threaded all the down shaft) Step 1: remove tranny oil before beginning Here is a link to my photo album with the full size pictures: just in case!! and here's a link to the component teardown by Pashat: Jeres a gallery on swapping an 02A in an A2 in case anybody wants'needs that: īTW loaded all the pix on my hardrive. Done 020 without any probs or major special tools so this looks relatively easy DIY Tearing a VW 02A/O2A/02J/O2J Transmission Down to its Sub Assemblies ![]()
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